I checked off an item from my bucket list last weekend. Diane (three-more-blocks,) Jill (fall off a step-stool and break five bones – I’m no better as I trip over a breeze but no broken bones so far) and I headed to Louisville for the 143rd Kentucky Derby. Jill’s Lexus and I did the driving Thursday night (seriously, that car does everything for you) and we arrived at about 1:30 a.m. in Seymour Indiana, about an hour outside of Louisville. The young man at the desk said that usually no one arrives as late as we did but they were expecting four more parties that night who had the same plan as us, get a cheap hotel and drive the rest of the way in the morning.
That morning we enjoyed what I thought was a decent breakfast (until I encountered Nancy’s cooking – more on that later) with lots of folks already wearing their Derby hats, including the entire staff. It was raining pretty hard as we headed to Diane’s friends’ (Doug and Nancy’s) home in Louisville where we’d be the rest of the weekend. I have to say it was by far the nicest bed and breakfast I’ve ever stayed in, especially considering it wasn’t a bed and breakfast, just some people being incredibly hospitable. As soon as we entered their door we were offered Lilies (the drink of the Oaks,) Mint Juleps (obviously the Derby drink) and Mimosas. Have I mentioned how much I like these people?
The rain had let up a bit around noon and Diane and Jill’s friend Agnes had arrived from Lexington to round out our group and add some fun. The six of us piled in to the Rogue (I’m pretty sure I heard clown music when we spilled out) to Churchill Downs for a 20 minute walk through the wind and very light rain. Considering Diane had simply went online and requested covered seats with seatbacks, we had a pretty good area in the lower covered section. The row in front of us was only halfway under the overhang and even when it wasn’t raining there was a pretty constant drip off of the roof. We were also on the aisle but the Derby folks, unlike the designers at every other venue, made the rows so wide that a person could pass without the need to stand to let them by. I suspect this is so that you don’t accidentally spill your drink. In addition, for the Derby we were close to where the race started and got to see the horses again as they came around the track heading for the finish line.
For those of you as uneducated as I was, on Friday the Oaks is a filly’s race. It is also a big breast cancer awareness day so in addition to everyone wearing hats, pink is the predominant color, right down to the featured drink that day, the Lily, which contains Grey Goose, sweet and sour mix, cranberry juice, Triple Sec and crushed ice. Thanks to the juice it is also pink. And delicious. That said, I discovered that I do like Mint Juleps. For reasons beyond logic I thought that it contained gin or rum and the mint was muddled like in a Mojito. I also had not heard anyone ever say they were good, just that I had to try one. My opinion started to change as soon as I found out it was bourbon based. Add that it only had a sprig of mint and I was all in. I was also told that they were better this year because they had upgraded to Old Forrester straight bourbon whiskey. Okay.
The last block before the racetrack we were harassed by evangelicals who seemed to revel more in the thought of our descent into Hell versus actually caring for our souls. I wanted to ask them if they’d like me to place a bet for them but surprisingly I refrained. Security at the course is a bit of a joke. The rules stated no bags over 12” in any dimension but they weren’t measuring and were basically letting anything through, thank heavens Jill didn’t know that beforehand or she’d have probably tried to bring a rollaboard. As it was she had used binder clips inside her 16” bag to hold in the sides so it would look smaller (she’s going to argue with me that it was only 14” but she’s not writing this.) Not that the rest of us were any better overall; one seat in the car was completely overtaken by hats and the trunk was full with our stuff and I didn’t think we could have added so much as a baseball hat although Diane did buy one. We also managed to get quite a few Derby glasses home as well. I’m sure they were just empties we found.
The weather wasn’t great that day as it was sprinkling/raining on and off as well as windy and only in the mid-40s. At about the time I could feel the cold start to seep in to my bones we were offered a tour of Churchill Downs. While it was shoulder to shoulder going to meet our guide, as soon as we stepped in to the clubhouse portion my personal space quota was met. And it was warm. We traipsed through Millionaire’s row where people were dining on some tasty looking food at tables with linen tablecloths and china. On one of the levels we went out on an outdoor patio to have our picture taken with the spires behind us. We were pretty much as close to the spires as you could legally get.
We also were allowed IN the paddock – the area where the horses go, not the general admission area for the common folk. Our guide explained that on Derby day we would not have been allowed there as only 18 people can be inside at a time and they all have a direct connection to the horse. We walked through the area where the owners of the horses watch the race and were even in the tunnel that the horses go through to get on the field and were passed by reporter Donna Brothers on her horse (she’s the one who interviews the winners while on horseback right after they win.) Along with some amazing artwork on the walls inside the clubhouse we saw a glass replica of Churchill Downs with horses and spectators including musicians with their instruments, photographers with cameras and an ice bucket chilling Champaign. All in all it was okay. No seriously, it was amazing. However, when asked about the replica “It’s okay” was my response and I’m pretty sure Doug didn’t know whether to smack me or send for medical help as I was obviously delusional.
Rather than risk getting cold again we decided to scoot home and watch the Oaks race from the comfort of D&N’s which was barely 10 minutes away. That evening we had some fabulous Cuban food at Havana Rumba Express & Tapas Bar. It is a favorite of our hosts’ and I can see why. While we were invited and encouraged to go to a party with them we were too tuckered out that evening to do anything.
Saturday morning I realized that the Fairfield Inn’s breakfast wasn’t that great after all. Nancy had made two kinds of quiche, and there was also fruit and croissants. And Mimosas if we wanted. Yes, I might have a crush on Nancy. 😉 Agnes arrived and we headed to the Derby after much debate on what to wear. It was cold and windy again so I wound up wearing pants both days even though I had packed dresses. Jill and I were not alone in that decision although there were more dresses on Saturday. I was mildly amazed at the number of young things in sleeveless dresses, light or non-existent jackets and strappy, high heeled sandals. The people watching was just about as good as it gets and I delighted in being a place where being “matchy-matchy” was the in thing. We followed one girl who could not walk in her heels at all. I could barely watch her as I don’t know how she didn’t break an ankle. We couldn’t decide if she was giraffe April’s new baby or a recently born colt who would be running at Churchill Downs in a few years.
As there was about an hour between each race we had time for shopping. Diane bought me a “My 1st Derby” pin, Jill and I bought tops and Jill also bought “bourbon earrings” as she doubts that she would have bought them if she hadn’t had a Mint Julep. Mind you, she only had one, but evidently it had shopping power. While heading over to the paddock a reporter stopped Diane and asked if he could interview her. Afterwards they said they were looking for a first-timer and that’s how my pin and I wound up being interviewed as well. I spoke mostly gibberish but they did find a snippet they could use.
The race was a lot of fun and even though it was considered a slow race as it lasted over two minutes, I think it just means we really got our money’s worth. And of course the sun, which had been playing hide and seek all day, decided to shine its brightest at race time. Sadly my horse did not win and Diane is pretty sure he’s still running.
That evening we headed to Bristol, a place Diane and Jill had frequented and was known for its artichoke fritters before heading home to enjoy drinks with our hosts (who returned from another Derby party that we had also passed on) and we did manage to stay up until a grown-up hour that night.
Sunday dawned cool but sunny with no wind which made for very good walking conditions unless you’re from Louisville in which case the weather sucked. Of course at the end of the 4.5 mile walk (which was gorgeous up until that point) I decided to get up close and personal with the pavement. But once again, proving they were the hosts with the mosts, a neighbor happened to drive by, recognized Nancy and gave us a ride the rest of the way home. That’s service. And of course we had to stop at Fair Oaks Dairy on our way home which is basically a dairy farm Disney-style where you can see piglets, ride buses to take you to the different barns, Mooville, a “Cowfé” and the not to be missed Pork Education Center (we missed it.) However, we did not miss the Cheese store.
Folks have asked if I would go again and my answer is heck yes! Stay with awesome hosts, have great seats, an amazing tour, and appear on TV, who wouldn’t?
lisaland.me 